Flavours of Hungary: the cult of sweet chestnut

In Hungary, several beliefs, folk feasts, and customs are connected to sweet chestnuts. It is present not only in our culture but also in gastronomy; for example, sweet chestnut puree (“gesztenyepüré”) is one of the most beloved Hungarian autumn desserts.

According to Márton Takács and Ákos Malatinszky, the word “gesztenye” [gɛstɛɲɛ] probably came to the Hungarian language through Slavic mediation, around 1200. Interestingly, this word refers to both the tree itself and the sweet chestnut fruit.

History

The sweet chestnut is native to central-southern Europe (the northern Iberian Peninsula, the South of France, central-northern Italy, and the southern Balkan Peninsula). The Romans planted chestnut trees across Europe to harvest their edible fruits. They usually roasted the chestnut or ground it into flour. According to the belief, Roman soldiers ate porridge made from sweet chestnuts before going to battle.

In Hungary, the cultivation of this species has quite a long history, going back to the 13th century. This is indicated by the fact that

different variations of the word “gesztenye” appear in the name of numerous Hungarian settlements, such as Geszt, Gesztely, Geszteréd, Gesztes, Kesztölc, and Keszthely.

Folk customs and beliefs

According to legends, sweet chestnut became more popular in the Kingdom of Hungary in the 15th century, after Queen Beatrix, the wife of King Matthias, brought sweet chestnut recipes with her from Italy. The favourite dish of the king was capon stuffed with chestnuts. Sweet chestnut was considered a noble fruit in Transylvania, and the city council often gifted chestnuts to the lords and noblemen.

According to the ethnographic records, chestnuts were traditionally roasted in Hungarian villages on All Saints’ Day and gifted to the men who tolled the bells in memory of the dead.

In order to revive the forgotten folk customs, more and more Hungarian settlements started to organise chestnut festivals. The two most famous chestnut festivals are held in Iharosberény and Velem.

Hungarian handmade delicacy wins prestigious gastronomic award

Chestnut puree

“Gesztenyepüré” [gɛstɛɲɛpyreː] is a beloved Hungarian dessert. You can buy pre-made chestnut puree in most supermarkets in Hungary all year round. However, it is a typical autumn dessert since chestnuts are typically harvested mid-September through November, and as with most dishes, homemade is the best.

This nourishing dessert presumably has an Italian origin and was inspired by the iconic Montebianco.

Ingredients

1 kg sweet chestnut

400 ml water

300 ml milk

1 vanilla bean

50 g sugar

100 ml water

50 g melted butter

150 ml whipping cream

50 ml rum

whipped cream (for serving)

1. Wash the chestnuts and make an X-shaped cut on the round side of each chestnut. Do not cut too deep into the flesh of the chestnuts. Put the chestnuts on a baking tray lined with aluminium foil and pour water into the tray.
2. Preheat the oven to 120 °C and roast for 40−45 minutes until the shells open up and curl back.
3. Pull and snap off the dark shells of the chestnuts while they are still warm, making sure to also take off the skin between the shell and the inside.
4. Pour the milk into a large saucepan, add the chestnuts, the vanilla seeds, and the pod. Cook them on low heat for approximately 45 minutes until chestnuts get completely soft.
5. Dissolve the sugar in 100 ml water over low heat.
6. Drain the chestnuts and put them into a food processor. Add the sugar syrup, the whipping cream, the melted butter, and the rum and mix until well combined.
7. Transfer the paste into a clean bowl and put it into the fridge for at least 6 hours.
8. Use a potato ricer or a grater with large holes to make chestnut puree strands.
9. Serve with whipped cream.

You can also use sweet chestnut as bejgli filling to add a twist to the traditional Hungarian pastry.